The muddy Mekong River is the main artery of South East Asia
flowing from Tibet down to where its fertile delta drains into the South China
Sea. With swift flowing water it brings with it the vitality that has enabled
the region to be a cradle for civilization where for 10’s of thousands of years
people have lived harmoniously with the river using it as a source of life.
During monsoon season its banks flood leaving the land fertile for farming and
the river stocked with fish including the behemoth Mekong catfish, allowing the
people to flourish off the land.
The boats that cruise along the river are long and narrow
allowing them to easily maneuver around the rocky and at times rapid river. Day
one from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng took about 9 hours and all that one can do
is sit and watch the jungle pass by. The boat occasionally stops at small towns
along the river to drop off people and goods. In such towns the riverfront seems
to be a private beach for children who have fun in the sun only to crowd around
the boat and watch what comes on and off. It almost seems like ‘Neverland’
where it appears there is a lack of adults and the children run the show.
Only 5 other travelers were heading up steam that day and
the ride was peaceful and calm playing card with my ship mates and relaxing in
the sunshine, enjoying the fresh air and cool breeze. Watching the hilly
jungles disappear with birds flying about and butterflies and dragonflies
swirling about above the water.
As the sun set on the first day we reached the stopping
point for the night in Pak Beng. Although it is just a small town it did break
the peace of the day when upon arrival everyone is trying to sell guest houses
as hundreds of tourists have arrived by bus and coming downstream from Thailand,
to this solemn town along the Mekong.
On day two an early morning start down at the river where
the morning mist still lingers in the hills and the town remains quiet as boat
captains and crew prepare for the day. The small docking area is full of long
boats with tall bamboo poles in the front proudly hoisting small Laos
flags. Across the river locals bring down
their elephants to have a morning drink and bathe in the river.
Slowly people begin to stroll down to get on their boats,
all except ours were heading downstream on the short trip to Luang Prabang. A
pickup truck full of suitcases pulled up to the docks and then piercing the
morning air was the overwhelming smell of women’s perfume. Sure enough a
procession of affluent elderly tourists coming to board their chartered boat,
smiled at me as I sat there in my dingy white t-shirt making a sandwich.
Day two of floating down the river was a cut and paste
repeat of the day before. Sunshine, fresh air, relaxation and the occasional
drop offs at ‘Neverlands’ along the way. As the hours passed however more and
more of the jungle was cleared for farms. House boats serving as cargo ships
began to pass in greater frequency. Cut into the hillsides, winding along the
river was also sliced out a red earthen path which will soon be a road to follow
the river. Nine hours later as we passed under a bridge still being constructed
that will soon connect the Laos with the Thai side of the border as ironic dark
storm clouds descended unleashing hell.
Welcome to Thailand!
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