DMZ VIETNAM

History is a subject that can be taught by means of various mediums such as textbooks, documentaries, or the internet. But only can one truly appreciate the value of that historic moment more than visiting the location in person. I am so fortunate to be able to have these opportunities along my travels with the latest one being a trip to the DMZ in Vietnam.

Usually when referring to 'The DMZ' people image the 38th parallel in Korea, with Kim Jung Un's communist regime to the north and the democratic Republic of Korea to the South. The DMZ in Vietnam served essentially the same purpose back in the 1960's but before the war began to divide the communist north and democratic south.

My trip to the region would shed whole new light on a war I knew of but little about. It made it even more special to be on a tour of 12 people including one US Veteran who served as a helicopter pilot in the region and a North Vietnamese Veteran who drove supply trucks up through China then down through Laos and Cambodia to support the resistance fighters in the south. These two former enemies, although now simply tourists, really helped to bring the events that happened here to life.

The trip started by visiting parts of the former Ho Chi Minh trail, which during the war were nothing but dirt roads covered by foliage that are now paved roadways across Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. The rivers along the Ho Chi Minh Trails were once crossed via movable floating bridges hidden from sight along the swift flowing rivers that are now spanned with permanent structurally sound bridges.

The next major stop was the Khe Sanh Combat Base used by US Marines on the South Vietnamese side of the DMZ. The air strip there was used as a base of operations in attempt to stop the Ho Chi Minh Trail near the Laos border. The hilly jungle terrain surrounding the base would set the stage for one of the most infamous sieges of the war. July 5, 1968 the US Marines could no longer hold out in this location and the small museum that now stands in its location shows the graphic photos of the battles and the deadly withdraw of US troops scattering onto evacuation helicopters. Approximately 500 US marines died here but that number though tragic is quickly overshadowed by the Vietnamese loss of life.

Further down the road and nearer the actual demarcation line this loss of life becomes instantly visible. The Truong Son National Cemetery is the resting place of over 10,000 North Vietnamese fighters during the siege of Khe Sanh and 10’s of thousands more from fighting in the area. The cemetery stretches out into the hills with row after row of tomb stones in a solemn testament to the losses of war.

One last final stop on the tour would be just across the DMZ into the North Vietnamese side to visit the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Along the coast of the South China Sea are large red clay deposits which made it easy for the villagers to dig intricate 10 meter deep tunnels for around 60 families to be out of US bombing range. The tunnels were equipped with living areas, kitchens, bathroom, wells, maternity rooms, and all with only 2 large air vents;  one to later be created from an unexploded US drilling bomb.

It is hard to imagine that people could live their lives underground for nearly 6 years in this damp claustrophobics worst nightmare. During that time 17 children were born in the tunnels and now live above ground in the same area showing the resilience of the Vietnamese people and thus the underestimated difficulties of the war. It is fortunate however that the attitudes of the Vietnamese are to forget, move on and hold no grudges. More inspiring however they strive to work together to unify and develop the country that they live, love and died for.