Chiang Rai

Sometimes there is no other option and fate leads travelers to unexpected places. Such was the case for stopping in Chiang Rai, Thailand. Normally this city is the jumping off point for tourists looking to do some trekking to visit hill side tribes in Thailand. For me it turned into a mouthwatering culinary escapade.

After visiting the temples, mosques and statues of the city, I decided to check out the morning market although it was already afternoon. Sensory overload was about to kick in with flowers spilling out into the streets, fresh produce piled to the heavens, olfactory senses cannot keep up with the ever changing smells coming from each passing street vendor, and your attention dwindles as each one is shouting for your business. A few dollars quickly turned into a few days of food.

The night market located around the bus terminal proved to be an even more extreme endeavor. Winding through the streets and alleys red tents created a canopy over head to house all the local products being sold. In the center of it all was a stage with live performances with a giant cafeteria style seating in the middle engulfed by food stalls selling everything baked, steamed, fried, boiled, frozen or however you want it to eat. Everything from pizza to burgers, sushi to Chinese, Padthai to insects, if you wanted it I’m sure you could have gotten it. Feasting away with friends sampling a little of everything made for the perfect experience in this stop over city.

Floating Up The Mekong

The muddy Mekong River is the main artery of South East Asia flowing from Tibet down to where its fertile delta drains into the South China Sea. With swift flowing water it brings with it the vitality that has enabled the region to be a cradle for civilization where for 10’s of thousands of years people have lived harmoniously with the river using it as a source of life. During monsoon season its banks flood leaving the land fertile for farming and the river stocked with fish including the behemoth Mekong catfish, allowing the people to flourish off the land.

The boats that cruise along the river are long and narrow allowing them to easily maneuver around the rocky and at times rapid river. Day one from Luang Prabang to Pak Beng took about 9 hours and all that one can do is sit and watch the jungle pass by. The boat occasionally stops at small towns along the river to drop off people and goods. In such towns the riverfront seems to be a private beach for children who have fun in the sun only to crowd around the boat and watch what comes on and off. It almost seems like ‘Neverland’ where it appears there is a lack of adults and the children run the show.

Only 5 other travelers were heading up steam that day and the ride was peaceful and calm playing card with my ship mates and relaxing in the sunshine, enjoying the fresh air and cool breeze. Watching the hilly jungles disappear with birds flying about and butterflies and dragonflies swirling about above the water.

As the sun set on the first day we reached the stopping point for the night in Pak Beng. Although it is just a small town it did break the peace of the day when upon arrival everyone is trying to sell guest houses as hundreds of tourists have arrived by bus and coming downstream from Thailand, to this solemn town along the Mekong.

On day two an early morning start down at the river where the morning mist still lingers in the hills and the town remains quiet as boat captains and crew prepare for the day. The small docking area is full of long boats with tall bamboo poles in the front proudly hoisting small Laos flags.  Across the river locals bring down their elephants to have a morning drink and bathe in the river.

Slowly people begin to stroll down to get on their boats, all except ours were heading downstream on the short trip to Luang Prabang. A pickup truck full of suitcases pulled up to the docks and then piercing the morning air was the overwhelming smell of women’s perfume. Sure enough a procession of affluent elderly tourists coming to board their chartered boat, smiled at me as I sat there in my dingy white t-shirt making a sandwich.

Day two of floating down the river was a cut and paste repeat of the day before. Sunshine, fresh air, relaxation and the occasional drop offs at ‘Neverlands’ along the way. As the hours passed however more and more of the jungle was cleared for farms. House boats serving as cargo ships began to pass in greater frequency. Cut into the hillsides, winding along the river was also sliced out a red earthen path which will soon be a road to follow the river. Nine hours later as we passed under a bridge still being constructed that will soon connect the Laos with the Thai side of the border as ironic dark storm clouds descended unleashing hell.

Welcome to Thailand!

Luang Prabang

Consistently listed as one of the number one places to visit in Laos and Southeast Asia as a whole, Luang Prabang although seemingly small, has so much history the entire city was deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site. Located along the Mekong, this wat filled urban sprawl draws in tourists by the thousands to partake in jungle treks, visit tribes, see elephants, caves, waterfalls and so much more. The main strip is lined with travel agents, guest houses and restaurants in rustic European style buildings offering something for everyone.

In the evening as the sun sets the main road closes off to traffic and the red tents go up. The night market is a seemingly endless stretch of vibrant colored fabrics, art, tacky souvenirs and so much more. If you can manage to emerge on the other side victoriously without buying something you don’t really need, you can reward yourself with a fresh fruit smoothie from one of the countless vendors 

Continuing into the food stall ally you can take your pick of buffet style tables loaded with every kind of vegetable, noodle, rice, tofu, curry, and chicken imaginable. There are around 50 different culinary delights on each table, but who’s counting? Just hand over your 10,000kip, take a plate and load up on an explosion of flavors representing cuisines from around the country.

You cannot claim to have visited Luang Prabang however, without visiting at least a few of the more popular temples. Vat Xieng Toung is a good early morning start point to tour the city and work off some of the calories from the night before. Climbing up Phou Si Hill to the golden stupa overlooking the city gives a perfect 360 view of the area and although just a short hike it still feels rewarding in the relentless sun.

The national museum housed in the former palace of the King is also a must to get a feel for the history and culture of the city and country. Among the more humorous aspects of the museum you can see the royal families car collection, most of them Ford’s given as gifts from the USA. Also towards the end of the museum there is a section containing gifts to the royal family from countries around the world including china sets, silverware, paintings, statues, and other fine pieces of jewelry and artwork. At the end however is a gift from the USA… A Laos flag carried aboard Apollo 11’s mission, a rock from the moon and a toy model of the lunar lander. The USA would be that kid no one wants to invite to their birthday party because they give bad gifts.

With the temples, museums, markets, river and all of the surrounding activities it is easy to see why so many people are naturally drawn to this location. It certainly does make for a memorable trip to a unique city with a lot to offer.

Post Party Vang Vieng

If you ask anyone who has backpacked around Southeast Asia they will most certainly tell you that second to full moon parties in Thailand, Vang Vieng is the party Mecca. When talked about, hazy memories of wild times are vaguely remembered with no shame. Tubing down the river was the must do event where half naked sun bathers floating from bar to bar to fill up on drug tainted drinks and where guys show off their drunken courage by jumping off of rope swings, trees and platforms along the way.

To many backpackers and more important the locals reliant on their squandering of money it came as quite a disappointment when the government came in and shut down all of the bars lining the river. As the rumors circulate the backpacker trail, it was an estimated 23 drinking related deaths that occurred on the river this year, not including 7 people who were transported to Vientiane for treatment and died there, that was the cause of the closure.

Even with the massive influx of party goers vastly reduced Vang Vieng still retains its natural beauty and endless outdoor activities that reels in many adventure seeking tourists. The small but vibrant town sits along the Nam Song River with lush karsts protruding from its banks making for an extremely scenic atmosphere. Floating down the calm dark river on tubes proved to be even better without the chaos of the bars, beats, and bodies.  With the sun shining, harmonic sound of the flowing water, towering hills, and good company it creates the perfect way to soberly unwind.

Meanwhile back in town the most peculiar thing happens all day every day. All of the bars and restaurants along the river play nonstop reruns of the sitcom Friends or Family Guy. Tourists and locals alike lie on cushions in front of large TV’s drinking the day away and watching. At first you laugh and ask why? But then after spending a day in the sun you find yourself unable to get off the cushion and sucked in as well. With a beer Lao in hand, watching the sun set over the hills and a rerun of Friends simultaneously proved to be oddly relaxing and addicting.

Vibrance of Vientiane

This was my first intended stop in Laos, and like all capital cities, it gives you a vibe for what else the country has to offer. Laos is a country that has been ravaged by war throughout time especially during the Vietnam War with US carpet bombing of the Ho Chi Minh Trail and the CIA’s ‘Secret War’ to train guerrillas in the jungle to fight the communists. Even with not so distant devastation the people of Laos seem prepared to progress and Vientiane shows just that.

Walking in from the bus station through the Patuxai Gate you enter the central part of the city which is surprisingly modern with massive shopping centers, hotels, and all other amenities. The streets are well maintained and clean with citizens being both friendly and helpful. It is the architecture and cuisine that are the most telling aspects of the city however.

Sporadically dispersed throughout the urban landscape are Mosque’s, Buddhist temples, and Christian Churches all intertwined to make up the diverse yet peaceful people of Vientiane. Food vendors serving out an endless variety of ethnic dishes spill into the streets from every open hole in the wall.  Even still they do not even begin to represent the over 130 different ethnic groups of Laos although the night market of endless red tents lining the Mekong does display many of their handicrafts.

Primarily Buddhist, with elaborate Wats appearing on nearly every block, there is a gem that literally out shines the rest. The golden stupa of Pha That Luang dates back to the 1500’s but still dazzles in the sun today. It stands symbolic of both religion and freedom for the Laos people. With construction of a world trade center tower and other projects underway, this slow paced yet dynamic city is sure to lead Laos into the global market for a brighter tomorrow.

Alice in Wonderland Meets Buddha

Nearly everyone that passes through Vientiane will make the trip outside the city past the Friendship Bridge to Thailand in order to visit Xieng Khuan (Buddha Park). Although it has little historic value being only about 55 years old, for less than a dollar this small road side attraction will leave puzzled. You will certainly be pondering if the fruit milkshake lady may have slipped something special into you breakfast shake.

With a massive lying Buddha as the focal point, the park is filled with impressive stone statues of everything from a simple rabbit to lead you into 'Wonderland' to intricately designed towering demons embodying mythological creatures of evil from the past to lead you into hell. For this one allow the pictures and your imagination to explain!

Sleepy Savannakhet

Located only about 140km from the Vietnam border, the 7 hour bumpy dirt road bus to Savannakhet would certainly have anyone confused about its actual distance away. Upon arrival this lazy town gives a whole new East Asian vibe when no one is attacking you for tuk tuk rides and accommodations or trying to sell you random unwanted items. It was almost like being in the twilight zone.

Walking around in the night finding a street sign or place to sleep actually was quite hard but several local people freely offered to help me, not even trying to scam me to go somewhere else but just genuinely assisting me and making calls around to local hostels. Friendly outgoing people?  No one aiming for my money?  One strange place indeed!

The next day would prove to be the longest laziest day ever. I set out to the local museum which showcased a few random items including articles from the US Secret war, but after reading every plaque and label I was finished in under 10 minutes. Next I figured I’d try the dinosaur museum which displayed a few sets of bones discovered in the region and the friendly curator showed me the dusty bones piled on shelves in the back room yet to go on display, but again it all took about 10 minutes.

On to Wat Sinyaphum next, located along the Mekong River, hardly gave me a positive impression of Buddhist life in Laos. Monks of all ages sat around in their bright orange prisoner colored robes while the youth listened to their I-pods and lounged around. Outside the temple workers were carefully painting a parking lot full of Buddhist statues with their fake golden exterior.

Within an hour I had seen the entire town and its few offerings. With nearly 12 hours to kill I went to the  road coming from the church and sat on one of the many empty benches in the sun watching children fly homemade plastic bag kites in the dusty, otherwise empty streets. The highlight of my day was watching the other foreigners trapped in this town board the VIP bus to Vientiane while I nestled in between 2 bags of mangoes on the local bus to take me somewhere with a pulse.

Huyen Tran Cultural Center

Only recently built, the Huyen Tran Cultural Center is completely off the tourist map but proved to be a great place to go with local friends to goof around and escape the fast paced city. Exiting Hue we weaved around the hills covered with cemeteries on motorbikes escaping all traffic and noises of the city. When we arrived at the Center the parking lot was completely barren which made it all the better for me.

The center is dedicated to Princess Huyen Tran, born in 1287 to King Tran Nhan Tong. In 1306, to help maintain peace with the neighboring country of Champa, she married King Che Man who would die one year later. Champa tradition was that a wife must be burnt to death when her husband died so King Tran Anh Tong brought Huyen Tran back to Dai Viet where she would became a nun until her young death in 1340.

The entire place was all to us which allowed us to do all the inappropriate things one normally cannot do at a temple; climbing onto the statues, being noisy, and entering places off limits. Up a staircase through the jungle we reached the Peaceful Bell Tower with a great vista overlooking the distant city. Being the only ones around, who would of thought ringing a giant bell could be so fun? Going inside of it and goofing around the 4 of us could not escape our child-like state. This was the perfect place to end my trip in Hue having fun in an unknown location with new amazing friends.

DMZ VIETNAM

History is a subject that can be taught by means of various mediums such as textbooks, documentaries, or the internet. But only can one truly appreciate the value of that historic moment more than visiting the location in person. I am so fortunate to be able to have these opportunities along my travels with the latest one being a trip to the DMZ in Vietnam.

Usually when referring to 'The DMZ' people image the 38th parallel in Korea, with Kim Jung Un's communist regime to the north and the democratic Republic of Korea to the South. The DMZ in Vietnam served essentially the same purpose back in the 1960's but before the war began to divide the communist north and democratic south.

My trip to the region would shed whole new light on a war I knew of but little about. It made it even more special to be on a tour of 12 people including one US Veteran who served as a helicopter pilot in the region and a North Vietnamese Veteran who drove supply trucks up through China then down through Laos and Cambodia to support the resistance fighters in the south. These two former enemies, although now simply tourists, really helped to bring the events that happened here to life.

The trip started by visiting parts of the former Ho Chi Minh trail, which during the war were nothing but dirt roads covered by foliage that are now paved roadways across Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. The rivers along the Ho Chi Minh Trails were once crossed via movable floating bridges hidden from sight along the swift flowing rivers that are now spanned with permanent structurally sound bridges.

The next major stop was the Khe Sanh Combat Base used by US Marines on the South Vietnamese side of the DMZ. The air strip there was used as a base of operations in attempt to stop the Ho Chi Minh Trail near the Laos border. The hilly jungle terrain surrounding the base would set the stage for one of the most infamous sieges of the war. July 5, 1968 the US Marines could no longer hold out in this location and the small museum that now stands in its location shows the graphic photos of the battles and the deadly withdraw of US troops scattering onto evacuation helicopters. Approximately 500 US marines died here but that number though tragic is quickly overshadowed by the Vietnamese loss of life.

Further down the road and nearer the actual demarcation line this loss of life becomes instantly visible. The Truong Son National Cemetery is the resting place of over 10,000 North Vietnamese fighters during the siege of Khe Sanh and 10’s of thousands more from fighting in the area. The cemetery stretches out into the hills with row after row of tomb stones in a solemn testament to the losses of war.

One last final stop on the tour would be just across the DMZ into the North Vietnamese side to visit the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Along the coast of the South China Sea are large red clay deposits which made it easy for the villagers to dig intricate 10 meter deep tunnels for around 60 families to be out of US bombing range. The tunnels were equipped with living areas, kitchens, bathroom, wells, maternity rooms, and all with only 2 large air vents;  one to later be created from an unexploded US drilling bomb.

It is hard to imagine that people could live their lives underground for nearly 6 years in this damp claustrophobics worst nightmare. During that time 17 children were born in the tunnels and now live above ground in the same area showing the resilience of the Vietnamese people and thus the underestimated difficulties of the war. It is fortunate however that the attitudes of the Vietnamese are to forget, move on and hold no grudges. More inspiring however they strive to work together to unify and develop the country that they live, love and died for.