A Multifunctional Bridge

 Istanbul's Galata Bridge serves an even greater purpose than simply a traffic and pedestrian crossing over the Golden Horn. In the evening hours it also functions as a way of life where hundreds of locals bring their fishing poles out onto the bridge and fill up their buckets with fresh catches. The bridge is also lined with bars and restaurants offering the perfect view out over the cities plentiful mosques and active water ways. A post card perfect place to watch the sunset and local night life take shape.

Great Walls... of Turkey

Crumbling and decrepit, the city walls that once surrounded Istanbul remain an integral part of the city. Lining the main roads cars go in and out of the ancient wall entrances as an integral part of society. Forts tower above the hills where Turkish flags still wave in the breeze. Although farmers have claimed the surrounding land where water runs off these ancient walls, it still remains a center piece of tourism in Istanbul and some of the most beautiful spots of the city.

An Unfortunate ShoeShine

Walking along the Golden Horn in the dead of winter was an already dreary trip while poking washed up jelly fish along the way. Turning back on to the main street a shoe shine man was leaving his post and his brush unknowingly fell. I picked it up and flagged down the approximately 60 year old man. He grasped my hand and kissed it then insisted on a free shoe shine of my decrepit hiking boots.

Looking down on him as he washed my boots and repeatedly told me to change feet he told me about his unlikely story about having 4 children and one with an eye problem. It was looking down at a man on his knees, repeatedly kissing my legs and thanking me that introduced a pitiful mindset. I didn't believe his story of his children at all but one thing I did believe is that this man had hit rock bottom and to be on his hands and knees in the cold snowy streets of Istanbul, he somehow warmed my heart forcing me to give him money.

Nine Troys

The ancient city of Troy infamous from it's Hollywood movie appearance and it's fabled Trojan Horse, has quiet a more complex history that can be broken down into nine distinct Troy's.

I. 3000-2500 B.C. During the beginning of the Early Bronze Age the first fortress of Troy was established. Trade was primarily conducted between the Aegean and Anatolia.

II. 2000-2300 B.C. During the Early Bronze Age a Citadel was built on top of the fortress of Troy I. Trade was conducted with Southeast Anatolia, Aegean, Syria and Mesopotamia. Due to a sudden conflagration the people of Troy fled the city.

III. Troy was resettled with an increase in hunting practices and trade with the Aegean and Central Anatolia.

IV. 2100- 1900 B.C. During the end of the Early Bronze Age Troy was made into a larger settlement. This period also saw a change in trade partners, now trading with Greece, Cycladic, Near East and Central Anatolia.

V. 1900-1700 B.C. During the transition from Early to Middle Bronze Age. Trade continued with the Aegean and Anatolia but also begins with Cyprus.

VI. 1700-1250 B.C. A new fortress is built and trade resumes with Greece, Crete, the Aegean, Cyprus and Central Anatolia. A devastating earthquake destroys Troy VI.

VII. Troy can be divided into 2 settlements VII A and VII B

             VII A. 1250-1180 B.C. During the Late Bronze Age Troys trading partners include the Aegean,                     North Anatolia, Mesopotamia, Cyprus and Syria. Another conflagration ruins the city.

           
              VII B. 1180-1000 B.C. During the transition into the Iron Age Troy is now trading with Greece and Southeast Europe until yet another conflagration occurs leaving the city ruined once again.

VIII. 900-85 B.C. The Greeks settle Troy and Alexander the Great visits until it is destroyed by the Roman Empire.

IX. 85 B.C. - 5^th Century A.D. Troy remains under Roman rule

It seems apparent that this city was never meant to be and has been the site of destruction and ancient legends. Today the site remains an active archaeological dig where the layers of the nine Troys are still being unearthed and studied in attempt to put to rest some of the legends that remain.

Creatures of the Street

Istanbul is a city that has seen many conquests over the centuries but seems to be under a different type of modern day siege. It appears that the cats and dogs have taken over the streets. Well fed and taken care of, especially around the ports and mosques, the street animals seem to rule the streets here. Not to be feared but to be pet and cuddled, the animals here are revered by the locals and either invoke fright or are adorned by travelers.

Aya Sophia

Originally dedicated in 360 A.D. the Aya Sophia was burnt down twice, once in 404 and again in 532 A.D. It was rebuilt as a church in 532 A.D. under Justian I's rule of the Byzantine Empire and would remain so for centuries. From 1453 until 1935 however, Istanbul was under the Islamic rule of the Ottoman empire and the Aya Sophia was turned into a city mosque. In 1935 this Church turned Mosque was finally turned into a Museum which greets international tourists on a daily basis and will continue to marvel generations to come.

Blue Mosque

A true Bohemia when it comes to Islamic prayer centers, the Blue Mosque attracts both devote Muslims and hordes of tourists alike. From speakers in the towering minarets prayer calls sound out over the city muffling those from other smaller mosques and at night the building outshines all others in Istanbul until day break. Inside, the massive prayer hall is adorned with lamps hanging from the dizzying heights of its decorative ceiling. A truly majestic architectural and religious icon that represents not only Turkish but world culture. 

Commuter Conversation- With a Syrian Refugee

Straight away this latest trip has been an eye opening experience. On the tram from the airport to my hostel I encountered an elder man from Syria. He began curiously interrogating my friend and I's home countries and why we were visiting Istanbul. He introduced himself as a Syrian and carried on normal conversation with us for the first few stops. Then he grasped our hands and apologized for doing so but he wanted to change the topic of conversation to Syria and with fiery passion in his eyes he began.

It turned out that he was an exile for over 20 years who has been traveling around Europe, learning languages and unable to return to Syria. His story then became more intense when he identified himself as formerly being very close and part of the Assad regime. It was this point that his demeanor became more aggressive and his tone changed to intense hatred for Assad and his regime for whom he once worked.

He began explaining how Assad was born into this lifestyle of wealth and not knowing of work or poverty. The current war is a result of this upbringing in that Assad will never willingly give up his wealth and power. It is this attitude that has driven the rebels, with no other option, to try to take the country back at whatever cost. It is this willingness of both sides to sacrifice life over compromise that forecasts a long struggle with no end in sight.

It was the look in his eyes, of both terror for his countries fate, and anger towards the man that has left his country in ruins that has burned its image into my mind. As we approached our tram stop he once again apologized to us for speaking of this as he returned to a civilized tone once again. As I walked off the train and away, this conversation followed. The sad reality is that mankind has not learned it's lesson of dealing with dictators past and the world will continue to look onto this war from a distance, as dreams fade and lives are lost.  

World Trade Center- A Memorial In the Making

Everyone that was alive and old enough at the time can surely recall where and what they were doing on September 11, 2001. For me it was our first week of high school during freshman year. A trip to lower Manhattan to visit the World Trade Center Memorial invokes recollection of the most vivid imagery of that day in speechless somber. No word can be spoken as the stomach knots up while the heart and mind become overwhelmed with sadness. Glancing up at the new World One building shows resilience and progression but looking back down into the hollowed holes where the towers once stood is a stark reminder of a painful past to never be forgotten.

  

Rockefeller Christmas Tree

It looks spectacular on television but to turn the corner into Rockefeller Plaza and see the Christmas tree with your own eyes is enough to fill any scrooge with joy. It puts an instant smile on the face, twinkle in the eyes and the sensation of being a carefree child again. To see that joy in everyone's face, both the young and the old, truly is what Christmas Spirit is all about.

                  

YULE LADS

With over half of Icelanders truly believing in elves, it is no wonder that Christmas means a little more there. As legend goes and people still believe there are 2 old trolls that live upon the mountain, Gryla and Lappaluoi. Gryla loves to take bad children and cook them in her giant pot to eat. Together they have 13 naughty sons; the 13 Yule Lads. The first Yule lad, Sheep-Cote Clod arrives on December 12.

The children of Iceland open their windows and leave one shoe out at night. If they have been good they will receive a present from Sheep-Cote Clod. If they have been bad they receive a potato which will bring them complete shame and ridicule the following day at school. Every day after another Yule lad comes; Gully Gawk, Stubby, Spoon-Licker, Pot-Scraper, Bowl-Licker, Door-Slammer, Skyr-Gobbler, Sausage Swiper, Window-Peeper, Doorway-Sniffer, Meat-Hook, and finally Candle-Stealer.

If a child is lucky enough to receive no potatoes in their shoe by the end of the 13^th day on Christmas, they are still not in the clear. They still get one more visitor, the Christmas Cat. If the child is not good enough to receive at least one piece of clothing from the Yule Lads by Christmas, the Christmas cat will come and eat them.

Being such strong believers in elves, it is no wonder why December in Iceland sees some of the most well behaved children on the planet.

The Golden Circle

The golden circle is must for anyone stopping over in Iceland! This tour gives you a brief introduction to the natural wonders contained within this volcanic islands harsh environment. Vast expanses of lava fields are filled with large craters full of crystal clear spring water. These lava fields are met by extensive grasslands fringed by glaciers and snow peaked mountains.

Gulfoss waterfall is one of the showcases of the tour. Although frozen on the exterior during the winter, it still pours water over its edges and through the canyon creating a picturesque winter scene while nearby thermal pools are venting heat. They provide the needed nutrients for vibrant colonies of microorganisms that grow on the edges of bubbling mud pits and spouting geysers.

The trip ends with a stop in the middle of Pingvellir National Park to watch the sunset. This site is where the European and North American tectonic plates drift apart and creating the lakes and volcanoes that make up this epic landscape. This introduction to Iceland's out of this world scenery will surely inspire and amaze.

Best Part of Being An Island

Being an isolated island in the North Atlantic, Iceland certainly has many difficulties such as exporting and importing all products by air or sea. The perk of being an island however means endless coastal vistas. Iceland's coasts are lined with lava rocks as well as beautiful black and white sand beaches. Light houses dot the rocky shores to guide ships through the night while creating post card perfect views all around the island.

     

Reykjavik

Iceland's largest city, in addition to being the world's northern most capital, Reykjavik is an especially interesting place to visit during the winter. With the sun only skimming the horizon for a few hours each day, it is the cities' Christmas lights and mother natures' northern lights that are left the task of illuminating the city. Nestled along the southwest coast of the island it receives surprisingly mild winters with little to no snow.

In the heart of this slow paced city you will find the locals partaking in the daily routine of feeding the ducks and geese in the frozen pond among other lackadaisical winter tasks. Although quaint, the cities charm comes from its vibrant buildings surrounded by the calm frigid ocean and snow capped mountains. To take in its full extent one must take the elevator to the top of the Hallgrimskirkja church and the highest point in the city.

Easily fooled by its small size, party goers from all over Europe make weekend escapes to Reykjavik's bumping night life. At one time Iceland outlawed liquor and it seems that Icelanders are trying to make up for lost time every weekend. Live local bands play at most bars and the parties don't stop until the sun comes up, which in winter time is not until around noon the following day. Be sure to pick up your duty free liquors for pre-gamming however, or your holiday savings can quickly disappear in this Christmas wonderland!

                 

The World's Museum

If you dream of traveling the world but it is far beyond your reach, a FREE trip to the British Museum is the place to go. Even if you are the first visitor in upon opening and the last visitor out upon closing it is impossible to see everything in a single day. From centuries of imperialism, Britain has received or plundered some of the best artifacts from around the globe. Most notably Greek, Roman, and Egyptian artifacts to name a few. Every corner of the globe is represented from the Americas to Australia, Asia to Africa; it seems no civilization was left untouched by this once power hungry empire. Although many of the artifacts were obtained by questionable methods, one thing is for certain; that this museum truly serves as a cultural preserve for all mankind. Truly 'The World's Museum.'