Babi Yar

This cryptic place was my first glimpse and a sad reminder of Ukraine’s horrific past. On September 29, 1941 all the Jewish citizens of Kiev and its surroundings were ordered to meet at Babi Yar with all of their belongings. Being told the lie that they would be transported and resettled in a safer location to start a new life, thousands eagerly obeyed. Once gathered they were asked to sort their possessions, strip naked and enter a ravine. It is in that ravine where machine gun fire would rain down on the unsuspecting victims and in just 2 days 33,771 Jews were killed. 

  

This was the single biggest massacre of the entire holocaust and the Nazi’s would try to hide the evidence by later burning all the corpses and barbarically spreading the ashes around the surrounding countryside. This was not the last time this place would see death however and would be the site where at least 100,000 more people would meet their demise before the wars conclusion. Now this place of death is marked by a graphic memorial statue over the hollowed burial pits with a radio tower rising above.

Chernobyl

April 26, 1986 1:23AM. As a passenger train from Minsk passes by in the night a power surge caused explosions from within Chernobyl Reactor 4 killing one worker whose remains are still inside today. A second worker dies from steam burns. The people in the surrounding towns still asleep have no warning of the disaster taking place. Twenty eight firemen responded to the blaze without proper equipment or warning of the risks. These brave men would have all the fires extinguished by 6:35AM but be condemned to death.

April 27, 1986 2PM. The evacuation of Prypiat begins and residents are advised to take only what they can carry, leave their pets behind and get on buses bound to return in 3 days. The first responding firefighters treated for radiation poisoning are moved to a hospital in Moscow where they were quarantined unable to be visited by families and the floors of the hospitals above and below them were evacuated. They suffered an unimaginable death where a few days after exposure their skin began to burn off followed by t bone marrow burning then their organs until all 28 finally died about 2 weeks after. Even in death their families could not see or bury them and their bodies were disposed of by the Russian government.

April 28, 1986. Russian Officials finally admit the severity of the incident due to scientists in Sweden detecting high levels of radiation in the atmosphere and identify its source as Chernobyl.

In the days and weeks after the explosion soldiers moved in to begin construction of a cement sarcophagus. The soldiers and other workers were only allowed to work 15 minutes a day. The silence of evacuated Prypiat was filled with the sound of gun fire as soldiers are ordered to kill all animals and pets remaining to prevent radiation spread. Radioactive rain turns the green pine trees red and soldiers were required to cut down every tree in the forest and bury them. Wooden houses were bulldozed and buried on site.

Chernobyl today makes for a truly unique trip and eye opening experience into the Cold War and Russian policies. The first sighting on my 2 person tour was of a wild horse. Not just any horse but one of a small group of wild horses allowed freedom to graze within the 30 km exclusion zone on the land once cultivated by farmers. Inside of a pre-school is an eerie reminder of the sudden evacuation where children’s toys lay scattered around the yard and tiny shoes fall out of lockers. Books, desks, chairs, beds and all the contents inside remain just as they were left 26 years ago.

While approaching the epicenter the cone shapes of reactors 5 and 6 never built to completion pop up from the horizon. Reactors 1 and 2 can be seen across the river only finally shut down in 2000 Adjacent to them are the connected reactors 3 and 4, the site of the disaster.

From standing just 500 meters from the exploded reactor can be seen, but not photographed, the new sarcophagus under construction. This massive project was meant to already be completed several years ago but is taking much longer. The existing sarcophagus needs to be replaced by 2015 to prevent further radioactive leakage. This gargantuan concrete structure will encase the reactor and its existing sarcophagus once it is moved across the giant tracks to its new resting place.

The nearby town of Prypiat serves as a giant memorial of the lasting effects of Chernobyl in a zombie apocalypse like setting. The evacuated buildings have been left to be slowly reclaimed by nature. The dilapidated communist style buildings include apartments, a hospital, grocery stores, cinema, schools, restaurants, a hotel and everything else one would find in any other city. Situated in the center of the town are the remnants of an amusement park still waiting to be used for the first time.

Driving away from the reactor and through the 10 km and 30 km exclusion check points, ourselves and our belongings had to be checked for levels of radiation. Although a seemingly desolate place it is amazing that around 150 people have been permitted to resettle the land where they grow their own food and raise their own livestock which can never leave the exclusion zone. These people are so isolated it is easy to understand why they have no need for money but rather use moonshine as a form of payment. It is unclear what the future will have in store for Chernobyl but one thing is for certain, that the reckless actions of a power hungry Soviet Union have left a lasting impact on the land, people and history of the world.

Many Faces of Macau

Arriving to Macau by ferry from Hong Kong with no map, no plan and no knowledge of this Chinese Special Administrative Region was the perfect way to explore this truly unique city. The first stop was the historic town squares where Portuguese influence could be seen. Colorful colonial buildings, shops and churches make up the central market while the ruins of Sao Paulo Cathedral rest atop the stone steps in the middle. Inside of the adjacent hill is the Macau Museum which has astounding displays contrasting Buddhist and Chinese influence on one side and Christian and European influence on the other. Propped at the top of the hill are the fortress walls where cannons are still pointing out defensively over the views into the city where the next side of Macau becomes evident, CASINOS,

Macau is unfortunately not known for its historical significance but its casinos including the worlds’ largest, the Venetian. During the day the casinos create an impressive modern skyline concealing Macau’s colonial past, but after the sun goes down they become the pulse of the city. The spotlights begin to scan the sky, the signs and lights of the casinos illuminate the entire city like a giant electric rainbow flashing every color.

I found the final face of this city at the base of its most prominent landmark, the Macau Tower. The 12^th annual Macau food festival was taking place serving up international dishes from every corner of the globe represented by the restaurants around Macau. With mouthwatering smells wafting out from every tent the chefs were proudly serving out their best dishes perfectly executed for each customer. Although international, there was one variety of food reigning supreme over the rest and revealing the third and final face of Macau. CHINESE! Foods from every region of China reminds visitors that Macau truly is still a part of a much bigger picture. That picture being of course, CHINA.

Lantau Trail

Winding around the entire island of Lantau is an extensive 70 km network of hiking trails collectively known as the Lantau Trail. Heading out from Ngong Ping begins the first section known as the ‘Wisdom Path’ where a forest of tall wooden pillars with Chinese proverbs written on them, covers the hill side. From there the low traffic trail ascending Lantau peak begins.

The views on the way up into the green valleys of the island and the distant Buddha propped upon its peak makes for a pleasant walk. Soon however the morning mist becomes thick clouds and visibility becomes restricted to only a few meters ahead as the brisk winds sweep over the island. The silence and tranquility on the mountain is indescribable especially considering that somewhere below the clouds is one of the busiest port cities in the world.

From the clouds above the silence and solitude was broken only once, when unexpectedly I began to hear music. As it got nearer I could make out the song ‘everybody was kung fu fighting’ as an old man appeared carrying an old radio on his shoulder descending the mountain and singing along. It was the most peculiar thing and I couldn’t help but start hysterically laughing out loud all the way to the summit.

The descent to the beach on the other side of the island is equally impressive as the clouds begin to give way to the sight of a winding stone path through golden fields. The extensiveness of the trails became apparent as it branches into many directions and with no one around to ask for directions getting lost was imminent. When I at last emerged it was in the most bizarre of places, the entrance to the Tong Fuk Correctional Facility where I had to sit and wait for a bus amid a herd of cattle. A most obscure end to an interesting day.

HONG KONG

This city presents itself exactly the way one would imagine it from television but is also so much more. Busy streets full of honking vehicles, sidewalks packed with pedestrians, fluorescent signs flashing from every direction all taking place below an endless city skyline is what you will find. Victoria Harbor is truly a magnificent sight where ferries zip passengers across the calm waters and architecturally impressive skyscrapers create a coastal wall. The night view from Victoria Peak although every tourist in Hong Kong will undoubtedly be doing it as well, it is for good reason as it will truly take your breath away. You can observe the sparkling lights of the restless city without all the noise and traffic in order to find peace and beauty within all the chaos.

TIAN TAN and PO LIN

With a 360 degree view of Lantau the Tian Tan giant bronze Buddha sits watching out over the mountains and to the ocean.  The stone steps lead up to the impressive 250 ton statue 34 meters tall. Surround Buddha are 6 other intricate stone statues presenting offerings such as music towards the Buddha. At the base of the Buddha is the Po Lin Monastery, adorned with vibrant flowers and incense filling the air with fragrant aromas. The entire scene with the mountains, statues and temples in the morning air long before the tour buses start arriving is simply majestic.

                                   

BATU CAVES

Although ultra touristic, the Batu Caves are an incredible natural wonder and give excellent insight into the prevalence and importance of Hinduism in the region. The 272 steps leading up to the cave entrance are guarded by the infamous gold painted statue of Lord Murgan. Ascending the steps, fearless macaques grab snacks off of tourists and the massive cave entry begins to drip water on the heads of visitors. 

The inside of the huge cavern houses several vibrant Hindu temples where prayers and offerings are made to the various deities inside. Pigeons flock, monkeys scurry about while flora hangs from the ceiling and light penetrates through the immense hole in the caves roof. Although tourists are snapping pictures the importance of this place for the Hindus in peninsular Malaysia is cause for mass pilgrimages, festivals and religious ceremonies.

Back down at the base of the cliffs are several other temples where priests are making offerings and prayers and a lower series of caves beautifully depict Hinduism in its entirety. The caves are painted with every hue imaginable and filled with statues and scenes of the countless gods interacting with one another. Deep inside is also a mini reptile house and aquarium where for a few dollars you can interact with some very intriguing creatures to finalize an already unique trip to a religious and tourist mecca.