A HUE Kinda Day

Hue was never on my list of things to do in Vietnam, yet somehow I found myself staying there for almost 5 days enchanted by its charm. Although small in comparison to Vietnam’s other cities, Hue offers a wide variety of sights and activities both in and around the city. 

Having no idea what Hue was or what to see, it helps when you have some amazing local friends to help you out and show you off the beaten path. This was the case as they picked me up in a typhoon at 7AM on motorbikes to cruise around to various temples, passing pagodas and zipping over bridges to other sites where not a single tourist could be found.

Luckily the rain let up and I was able to visit the focal point of Hue which is the Imperial Palace located along the Perfume River. The Imperial Palace of the Nguyen Dynasty, between 1802 and the end of WWII, remains today a labyrinth of temples, palaces, and pavilions all surrounded by a mighty wall enclosed by a moat with grandiose gate entrances. Although not as impressive in age as other historic sites in Asia, its extensiveness and ability to survive numerous wars makes it a picturesque starting point for a visit to Hue.

 Outside the Imperial Palaces walls lies another wall bordering the entire river with a massive Vietnamese flag on what appears to be a fortress but is just a larger portion of wall. The river is crossed by several bridges which at night are illuminated and the adjacent bank of the river is lined with a flea market selling clothes and handicrafts as well street snacks and drinks. Even in the rain the city center, at its slow pace offers the most casual backpacker a lot to do.

A Day In Halong Bay

Many times when guidebooks and websites say that something is a number one must see location I can usually find several things nearby that are better. Halong Bay however certainly defies that in every way. It is definitely something that should be seen while visiting northern Vietnam and sooner rather than later as it is quickly developing, new hotels are arising, and tourist numbers are rapidly increasing.

In Hanoi there are hundreds of tour agencies all offering the same standard 1, 2 or 3 day trips to Halong Bay with varying price tags. I regrettably only did a one day trip which starts with a 3 and a half hour bus ride. Once there you get the overwhelming sense of being a tourist as droves of minivans and tour buses drop of hundreds if not thousands of unsuspecting tourists at the same pier at the same time.

One by one, 2 story white house boats pull up and group after group board and head out in a fleet of vessels. When leaving the port only a faint rocky shore line can be seen in the distance and all passengers are called into the dining hall to be served an elegant 9 coarse meal to be shared with fellow passengers from around the world. When lunch is complete the workers indicate to go onto the deck where the once foggy coast line now reveals dark shapes jutting out of the water with distant boats disappearing into the fog giving the sense of a ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ movie setting.

As the ship approaches the dark figures continue to rise out of the water seemingly higher and higher as they turn from dark illusive figures to vibrant lush green islands. Left, right, straight, or behind every view becomes instantaneously postcard perfect and the cameras go wild. Flora can be seen closer and closer while birds and butterflies can be viewed circling the pristine islands. The fleet of ships that all set out like taxis going to the same party, all seem to have gone different ways and that the piece of paradise being viewed is for your eyes only.

Cruising around the various islands leaves the atmosphere silent with only the sound of waves crashing on the boat as everyone gazes around themselves in total awe. A small floating village lays hidden and protected within the coves of the islands and is home to 100 of the luckiest people in Vietnam that have the opportunity to live in a fairy tale setting such as this

Once around the islands the day tour allows passengers the chance to stretch their legs and get off on one of the islands to ascend one of the pointed hills and enter into a spacious cave. Although quite tacky with its neon bulbs illuminating its inside, the size alone along with the sound of trickling water from the cave ceiling and sunlight breaking through holes makes for a good break from the boat.

Puttering away from the islands back to the mainland while watching the sun begin to set makes for the perfect end to the perfect day of relaxation in the sun. Halong Bay deserves its UNESCO title but unfortunately it is only a matter of time until the connecting roads are paved, cruise ships come, and more hotels taint the shore line. For me it was one of the most spectacular natural wonders I have seen and am glad to have been able to do so while nature holds onto its beautiful land. It is with great hope that this struggling developing nation does it’s best to maintain the islands and ensure future generations can enjoy their natural splendor as well.

Ho Chi Funk

I'm not at all sure how the following pieces of work fit in with the theme of the Ho Chi Minh Museum that was dedicated to both the leader and communism, but I figured I share them anyway. 

Perhaps the middle picture fits. Communism brings big things and plenty of food to everyone's table? But the others?

Puppet Show

Listed as a major tourist attraction in Vietnam, the infamous Water Puppet Show truly is a must. We chanced upon the theater at 18:58 when the show was set to start at 19:00 and the 3 of us got the last tickets; one of those truly perfect timing destiny type moments. We had no idea what to expect but even if we had expectations it literally blew them out of the water.

The small red velvet seated theater had a murky dark green pool of water as the stage making an already unique setting. Two women sat to the left of the stage singing and playing live music while narrating the stories before each act with a translation screen behind them. Each act represented various aspects of Vietnamese culture from Indian influence to traditional tribal courtship dances.

The first scene was a dragon and a phoenix fighting but then breeding to create eggs containing man, which in itself amazed. A wall of water fell from the ceiling as the string less puppets on underwater sticks moved majestically through the water act after act. The audience packed with foreigners including ourselves, were left in laughter, curiosity and awe. The puppets although unrealistic in appearance still moved in lifelike harmony.

At the end of the show in the last act all the puppeteers emerged from the waters doing a final performance alongside their puppets. The entire one hour experience for only $5 was an absolutely phenomenal experience. The perfect way to end a trip to Hanoi, being both entertaining and culturally moving!

WHY DID THE FOREIGNER CROSS THE ROAD?

To get to the other side!
The better question to ask is... HOW did the foreigner cross the road?
With motorbikes, buses, taxis and cars zipping by in every directions with apparently no laws 5 east steps!
1. Accept the fact that this is the only way to cross the road or you will be stuck on the wrong side forever!
2. Look both ways, even on 1 way streets! Find a pocket, 2 seconds between 2 vehicles nearest you.
3. Have no fear and step in with swagger and DON'T STOP or TURN BACK!
4. Ignore ALL horns since everyone always honks, accept you will not be hit and walk straight NO bee lines!
5. Arrive on the other side, check that the curb slab on the other side is not wobbly or about to fall into a swer, thank your Deity of choice, and continue on!

Hoa Lo Prison

I’ve been to prisons and prison museums in many countries and each time it is a sobering moment of dismay. The Hoa Lo Prison was no different. While winding through the first parts of the prison the history of its construction and early use are revealed. It was first implemented by the French in the 1500’s to lock up Vietnamese voices of dissent against. It was later used by the Chinese followed by the Japanese in the same fashion as the nation was conquered and repressed time and time again.

Later in the exhibit my nationality changes to proud Canadian as it becomes clearly anti-American sentiment. The prison was used to hold downed POW pilots with everything properly and clearly labeled with “The War Against America.” Propaganda or not, it is to be told by those that were there but there Is an entire room full of photos of American POW’s enjoying feasts, receiving medical care, playing sports, smoking cigarettes, and looking like anything but prisoners; thus the name “Hanoi Hilton”. Displayed in the center of one of the rooms, almost as a trophy, is the supposed parachute and jump suit of John McCain.

The museum then becomes a place of solemn emotions as you walk through narrow halls looking into dark and damp prison cells. Shackles still nailed to the floors and only a few rays of light entering in. Just imagining a summer in Vietnam shackled to the floor of one of those cells is enough to make anyone cringe. In a central room stands a rusted guillotine, no explanation necessary.

Although certainly a depressing place to see while on vacation, these are the places that really ingrain memories in one’s head and make travelling an educational and worldly experience. To see history outside a textbook and to feel the emotions that arise while in places where mankind has faltered really sets apart the tourist from the traveler.  

Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi

Being the great father to the Vietnamese people, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and Complex are a necessary starting point for a trip to Hanoi. Ho Chi Minh lived an extraordinary life travelling the world and learning its ways as a young man. Later he would go on to help change the fate and direction of Vietnam several times in the course of his life. Today he remains the poster boy and symbol of the nation.

His Mausoleum resembles that of many other political and military figures from around the world. He himself is on vacation from his tomb however and for several months a year is removed to be preserved and maintained, as was the case this week. Still thousands of visitors come to view it with a proud Vietnamese flag waving overhead and overlooking adjacent development projects, foreshadowing the future of the nation.

Surrounding the Mausoleum is a grand museum showcasing a giant bronze statue of the legendary man. The museum contains pictures and hand written letters and correspondences of his. It contains quotes on the walls that remain as anchors for the people of Vietnam to continue on the path and what’s best for the nation while maintaining the fight against westernization.

Also surrounding the complex is Ho Chi Minh's former residence which although small certainly does not give you the communist feel of equality and sharing. It seems quite elaborate for its time. In addition the nearby presidential palace in its blindingly bright yellow paint stands as a newer symbol of the nation and surrounded with 1000’s of soldiers casually meandering around.

True communism seems like a fix all for hate, discrimination, poverty and all other injurious sufferings that afflict the world. The only flaw appears to be that it goes against human kinds primal thoughts of always trying to do better and to never be content with what you have. Only the resilience of its people and time will tell the fate of Communist Vietnam.